How Second-hand American Clothing Exports are Polluting Africa
Second-hand clothing trade between the U.S. and Africa is leading to waste accumulation and water pollution threatening communities.
The Facts:
Second-hand clothing trade is a widespread practice across various African countries, including Ghana, Kenya, Nigeria, Tanzania, South Africa, and Uganda. The popularity of second-hand textile markets, like the Kantamanto and Gikomba markets in Ghana and Kenya, respectively, and the substantial revenue generated from this trade, demonstrate the deep-rooted embrace of second-hand clothes on the African continent. Most consumers prefer these second-hand items because they are more affordable than locally made garments, which they perceive to be overpriced. Some even favor thrifted clothes due to the greater variety they offer compared to locally manufactured apparel. A small percentage of the population opts for thrifted clothes to promote environmental sustainability.
The quality of second-hand clothes has been gradually declining, with a significant portion of the imports ending up in landfills either because they are too damaged or outdated to be resold. In 2021, around 458 million of the 900 million used clothing items imported in Kenya were deemed worthless. Traders in the Kenyan thrift market reported having to part with approximately 20-50% of the clothes in bales due to their poor condition.
In May 2024, William Samoei Ruto, the President of Kenya, made history by being the first African leader in nearly 16 years to embark on an official state visit to the United States. During his visit, President Ruto and President Biden engaged in discussions centered around trade and investment opportunities between the two nations. This meeting is regarded as a revitalization of the United States' Africa policy, with a particular emphasis on utilizing trade as the primary means to counteract the increasing influence of Russia and China in the region.
However, there is a crucial aspect of trade policy that should not be disregarded - the United States is the largest exporter of used clothes to Africa, annually exporting used clothing worth a billion dollars, which ultimately accumulates as textile waste in Kenya, Ghana, Tanzania, and other sub-Saharan African countries. Most secondhand clothing imports occur under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), a trade preference program between the United States and select African countries. AGOA, which was first signed into law in 2000, is set to expire in 2025. It provides duty-free treatment to promote trade and investment in apparel and other products.
The link between poor fashion waste disposal and water pollution in Africa is undeniable. In Ghana, the Korle Lagoon, whose banks consist of a landfill mostly made up of unused clothing shipped from the Global North, is now among the most polluted water bodies globally, with the fashion waste buildup worsening the situation. Fishers in the region are more likely to catch clothes with their nets than fish. Similarly, in Kenya, the Nairobi River has been directly polluted by fashion waste due to its proximity to the Gikomba second-hand textile market.
The pollution does not end there, as these water bodies open up to the ocean. Plastic pollution from second-hand textile trade is a serious issue affecting Africa's water bodies, as most of the clothes shipped to African second-hand textile markets are made up of synthetic fibers. Washing these clothes causes residual chemicals and dyes to contaminate water sources, and illegal dumping of fashion waste further pollutes water bodies.
The pollution starts with smaller water bodies which increases the fragility of larger ones, as microplastics from fashion waste are easily spread, threatening marine biodiversity and the livelihoods of communities that depend on these water systems. Many African nations lack adequate water treatment systems to sustain their growing populations, leading to the continuous discharge of untreated wastewater into water bodies.
Another environmental repercussion of fashion waste is increased carbon emissions. Textile production is an energy-intensive process, and the frequent disposal of fashion waste due to its short life cycle contributes to the problem. Much of this waste is incinerated, causing carbon emissions to spiral.
Furthermore, the abundant microplastics in the oceans impair the ocean's capacity to sequester carbon, causing a surge in carbon emissions, which poses a severe threat to the environment by advancing global warming and worsening climate change. Plastic pollution from fashion waste is a recurring sight along water sources near second-hand textile markets due to informal dumping.
African countries have attempted to mitigate adverse effects. In 2016, a group of East African countries considered banning imports of secondhand clothing. However, the Obama administration threatened to remove them from the AGOA program if they proceeded, which would have cut them off from other funding and opportunities provided by the trade agreement with the United States.
The View:
It is clear that the second-hand clothing trade in Africa has become a double-edged sword, with both benefits and detrimental consequences. While the affordability and variety of these garments have made them popular among consumers, the deteriorating quality and unsustainable disposal practices have given rise to a concerning environmental crisis.
The shocking statistics, such as the high percentage of worthless used clothing imports and the widespread water pollution, are a testament to the severity of the issue. Merely prohibiting the import of second-hand clothing is not the answer, as countries that tried faced retaliation from the United States, demonstrating the need to address the issue within the AGOA framework. A remedy could be to introduce changes to the AGOA to include provisions that encourage investment in recycling infrastructure and support for innovative solutions.
Additionally, investing in African entrepreneurial talent is crucial to prevent future textile pollution, as African entrepreneurs have sustainable solutions and are leading the way in developing innovative products and materials across the continent. Empowering these entrepreneurs and harnessing their age-old wisdom on environmental sustainability should be a key priority.
Allowing this situation to continue would be a grave injustice to the African people and the environment. A balanced and comprehensive approach is needed to tackle the complex challenges posed by the second-hand clothing trade in Africa.
TLDR:
The United States is the largest exporter of used clothes to Africa, and this trade occurs under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).
The quality of second-hand clothes has been declining, with a significant portion ending up in landfills due to damage or outdated condition.
The link between poor fashion waste disposal and water pollution in Africa is undeniable, with water bodies like the Korle Lagoon and Nairobi River being heavily polluted by textile waste.
The environmental repercussions of fashion waste include increased carbon emissions and plastic pollution, which pose a severe threat to the environment and marine biodiversity.
African countries have attempted to mitigate the adverse effects but faced retaliation from the United States when considering banning imports of second-hand clothing.
A balanced and comprehensive approach is needed to tackle the complex challenges posed by the second-hand clothing trade in Africa, including changes to the AGOA and empowering African entrepreneurs with sustainable solutions.
Know More:
The environmental disaster fuelled by used clothes and fast fashion | Foreign Corresponden ABC News
Insights From:
Opinion | Clothing donations pile up as textile waste in Africa - The Washington Post
How fast fashion is fuelling the fashion waste crisis in Africa - Greenpeace Africa